2013
Date: 4/02/13
Crag: Punakaiki
Participants: Bex,
Alice, Watson, Mark and Andrew
Duration of
activity: 2.5 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
Took
a couple of first years climbing and they weren't too bad. Started
with the easy 12 for a warm up then moved onto the rest of the climbs
which were 16s and 15s. Lead all of them and one of the first years
lead some as he had done it before. Was going to lead the 18 but
others wanted to leave and I figured I should work on my endurance a
bit more before climbing harder climbs.
Date: 10/2/13
Crag: Punakaiki
Participants:
Alice, Lenny, Ru, Cady, Nate and Mark
Duration of
activity: 2 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
Went
to punakaiki did 5 climbs and lead all of them. Lead the 18 without
falling or too much difficulty.
Date: 23/02/13
Crag: Punakaiki
Participants:
First and Second years
Duration of
activity: 1.5 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
Lead
a 16 and 18 then went for a boulder. Afterwards came back and did a
16 and 15 where I set up a top rope for a couple of first years.
Date: 24/02/13
Crag: Punakaiki
Participants: Tash
and Sonya
Duration of
activity: 1.5 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
Lead
and set up top rope on 14, 15 and 16 for Tash and Sonya then did
bouldering at beach. Good weather.
Date: 30/03/13
Crag: Nelson
indoor wall
Participants: Rene
and Bex
Duration of
activity: 1.5 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
Top
roped a 16, 13,14,15 and lead a 16. was going to do more but ran out
of time.
Date: 12/07/13
Crag: Punakaiki
Participants: Tash
Duration of
activity: 1.5 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
Lead
a 12, 15, 16, 16. I got Tash to lead a 12 and a 15.
Date: 26/07/13
Crag: Charleston
Participants:
Alice, Hugo, Lenny and Ru
Duration of
activity: 3 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
Practiced
systems. Did a little bit of climbing.
Date: 22/08/13
Crag: Long Beach
Participants: Bex
an Tash
Duration of
activity: 1.5 hours
Incidents/Injuries:
None
I
lead a 15 and a 16 and did some bouldering. Found that one of the
bolts had a lose hanger so was weary of the bolting in the area.2012
Date: 26/03/2012
Trip Location: Castle hill
Group members: Rob Bruce, Ari Kingan, Lenny McGirr
Route name: -
Route grade: Bouldering
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: Fine
Variations in environmental conditions: None
Incidents/injuries: None
Learning points: Get a guide book if you do not know the area well.
Narrative: The weather was good especially compared to Greymouth weather. We did not have guide book so at the start we were wandering around trying to find a good place to start. We didn't get as much climbing as we could have in but we still got a bit. Towards the end of the day we found a guy with a guide book and got a few good climbs from that. I practiced using feet only on a few slope ones with my hands only as balance. We left late afternoon to arrive home to rain.
Date: 19/04/2012
Trip location: Wanaka
Group members: Watson Green, Alice Payn, Rebecca Reidie
Route name: Do I have to
Route grade: 13
Duration of activity: 20 minutes
Weather conditions: Fine
Variations in environmental conditions: None
Incidents/injuries: None
Learning points: -
Narrative: We arrived in Wanaka late and meet up with Watson at the supermarket where we shopped for our food for that night. We then headed to clip and climb to get a guide book so we would have an idea of what climbs to go to. Next stop was the cliffs at Hospital Flats where we ran into Rob and Ari. It was getting dark so we only got one climb in which was a thirteen. Then it was time to find a campsite. Unfortuntly Alice locked Watson's key's in his car and we didn't get to camp till late as we were waiting for AA. However for the rest of the week we always made sure that the keys were not left in the car so it was a good learning point.
Date: 20/04/2012
Trip location: Wanaka
Group members: Watson Green, Alice Payn, Rebecca Reidie
Route name: Riverside- Infinite inviegeling, Dog leg
Tombstone- 6 feet under
Main Cliff- The big corner, Head bangers arete
Engine block- The radiator
Route grade: 16, 12,10,14,17,13
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: fine
Variations in environmental conditions: None
Incidents/injuries: None
Learning points:
Narrative: We started the day at riverside with a couple of warm up climbs on a 16 and 12. We lead both of them without incident which was a good start. Me and Rebecca then headed off to Hospital Flats while Watson and Alice went to Wanaka to get food for lunch, dinner and breakfast. While they were away Rebecca and I decided to keep up the intensity by climbing a 10 on tombstone. We then went to the main cliff and had to set up a top anchor for The Big Corner as there were no bolts. After this we moved on to Head Bangers Arete which was around the time that Watson and Alice showed up for lunch. We set up another top rope for this as we already had all of the gear up top. Watson climbed first followed by me and then Rebecca. I struggled on the crux for a bit but got up the climb fine after it. We then headed over to Engine Block where we did our last climb on a 13, The radiator.
Date: 21/04/12
Trip location: Wanaka
Group members: Watson Green, Alice Payn, Rebecca Reidie
Route name: Tombstone- The crack
Bakehouse- Curiously sheepish, Genetic Betrayal
Riverside- Dog Leg
Route grade: 17, 14, 17, 12
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: fine
Variations in environmental conditions: None
Incidents/injuries: None
Learning points:
Narrative: We kicked off the morning on a 17, The crack, which was a two star climb and was well worth climbing. However we had to set a top rope on it as it did not have any bolts. Watson lead an 18 unknowingly until he reached the top. He then set up and anchor and abseiled down. Rebecca was the first to climb and made light work of it. I was next and was surprised at how fun the climb was with only one fall that Rebecca and Alice took at the same place. Watson went after me so he could set up a top belay for Alice so we could all be on top of tombstone at once. We set up a bombproof system at the top and had Alice take a couple of falls a metre off the ground to test it. She got up fine which we were happy about as we had all managed to get up. Rebecca and I then left for Wanaka to do the food run. We zoomed through it and got back in time to have a couple of climbs at Bakehouse. Watson left for home while I was climbing Genetic Betrayal so it was only Rebecca, Alice and I left. Alice had to shoot into Wanaka to get a gas container and while she did this I had another climb on Dog Leg at Riverside which was a nice way to finish off the day.
Date: 22/04/12
Trip location: Wanaka
Group members: Alice Payn, Rebecca Reidie
Route name: Elvis trashes his car, Aratuatahi
Route grade: 15, 16
Duration of activity: morning session
Weather conditions: fine
Variations in environmental conditions: None
Incidents/injuries: None
Learning points:
Narrative: We got up early as we planned to leave by 11:30 but still wanted to get a few climbs in. We went to Roadside attraction where we lead Elvis Trashes His Car without much difficulty. We then moved on to Aratuatahi which had the crux of the climb at the start. Rebecca lead the climb first followed by me and then Alice. We all had a fall before the first bolt but fortunatly it was only a metre off the ground. This was the only bit of the climb that we struggled with and we breezed up the rest. It was good to end a few days climbing on a 16 two star.
Date: 24/04/12
We only did one climb at Dr Livingston wall then moved on to Seagrass where Bex and I lead our first 17. I went up first and was freaking out the entire time until I reached the top. Bex went next and like me was freaking out but she climbed it fine as well. We then top roped another 17 when Ru arrived then headed for Paynes where some of the other boys from tech were climbing. Bex and I struggled up Bondage for beginners then decided to move to an easier wall. We tried to lead our first 18 and got to the last bolt but couldn't reach the chains because the wall was too wet and slippery. A few of the other guys tried to reach the chains but couldn't so Bex and I didn't feel too bad. Luckily there was a 16 beside it that we could climb to get our gear back.
Date:13/6/12
We got to Punakaiki around lunch time and got straight into it. Rebecca and I started on the 16 we finished with the last time we were at Punakaiki. This time I made sure to take up the right number of quickdraws. Lenny and Tui had set up a top rope on the 15 beside our climb, to do some speed climbing and Rebecca and I had a go on it. Although I don't think you could really call Rebecca's attempt speed climbing. Lenny and Tui went to set up a top rope on the 18 while me and Rebecca got a couple of climbs in while they both had a go with Lenny leading and Tui on top rope. Rebecca had a go first and was doing well but just couldn't seem to get up over the overhang which had a tricky move. I headed up next with absolutly no hope of getting the overhang with my very limited upper body strength. When I got just below the overhang there was a cool little cave that you could crawl right into and I hung out there a bit to rest my arms and check out the view. Somehow I managed to get over the overhang with a weird move that required a lot of balance. It took a few go's but I was stoked when I got past it as the others could tell by my yelling. From there it was a cruise to the top and I cleaned the climb while the others packed up down below. We moved onto another wall when I came down called the Speights Wall. Lenny was the only one who climbed though because we had to be back by five and were running out of time. While Lenny climbed the sandbagged 17 I was having my own climbing battle. I missioned it up and through some tightly packed together bush to get to the top of the climb and take some photo's of Lenny. It was worth it for the view even with the climb back down where I somehow managed to rip my shorts. After, Tui attempted to climb but ended up prusiking up the rope to clean the climb. Meanwhile Lenny and I were doing some bouldering down the bottom. As soon as Tui was down we raced to the car so we could get back to tech in for the Hangi. Nothing can make a poor student move faster than the offer of free food.
Date: 21/09/12
Trip location: Charleston
Group members: Ru, Lenny, Alice, Zenzi, Rebecca, Ambrose, Jeremy, Watson, Tim, Conor, Ari, Rob and Jake
Route grade: 15
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: Fine
Incidents/injuries: Watson forgot his helmet
It was an early start so we could get a full days climbing in. We stopped at a beach along the way to get mussels and found that it was covered in star fish.
We arrived to music pumping out of Jeremy's amp when we got to the crag. I got straight into practicing natural pro placement and setting up anchors and found that I could still do it reasonably well. Alice and Bex set up a climb while Watson and I did a top rope rescue. Hanging from below the bolts brought back bad memories of the last time I was at Charleston and got stuck after I couldn't undo my prusik because of my fractured elbow. Luckily this time I got down fine with my legs only just starting to go numb.
From there some of the others left so it was just the Jeffries, Bex Rob and Me. Alice, Bex and I did a climb and some top rope rescues while the surf pounded against the rocks not to far from us. Afterwards I set up and anchor but didn't get a chance to climb on it as we were leaving because the weather had changed and it was about to rain. It was quite an awesome day even though we didn't get much climbing in.
Date: 24/04/12
Trip location: Paynes Ford
Group members: Rebecca Reidie, Chris Eckford, Jake Schrama
Route name: Track 5 The Little Lost Wall- Ecological Itch, Candy Man
Track 1 Creese Wall- Midwife Crisis, Blobbet
Route grade: EI= ?, CM= 18, MC= 14, B= 17
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: Fine
Variations in environmental conditions: None
Incidents/injuries: None
Narrative: Rebecca and I got to Paynes around 12 and went straight into climbing. NMIT was also there and I got to see my friend who does the outdoor recreation course there. We started on Ecological to warm up then moved onto a 16 which had a hard start but we managed to get pass it ok. Ecky's and Jake had just done an 18 and had a left a top rope up so while Rebecca climbed a 16 I went to try the 18. With no hope at getting to the top I started the climb with Ecky's belaying me. I got up to the crux fine and with no falls and was starting to feel more confident. When I got to the crux I saw how I could get up and went for it. I didn't get it the first time but managed to somehow get it on my second try and continued to the top which was a short way past the crux.
Date: 25/04/12
Trip location: Paynes Ford
Group members: Rebecca Reidie, Chris Eckford, Jake Schrama
Route name: Track 1 Creese wall- Good bye cream poofters, calling all hobbits
Track 3 Slave Wall- bondage for beginners
Route grade: 17+, 14, 17
Duration of activity: Morning session
Weather conditions: fine
Incidents/injuries: None
Narrative: Rebecca and I packed up all our things as we were planning to leave at mid day. We went back to track 1 on the creese wall and topped rope a 17+ which Jake had lead. I had done this climb before but it had taken me a while. This time I got up much faster and smoother thanks to some improved technique. We then moved on to track 3. Rebecca and I only had time for one more climb so we decided to try a 17 on Slave wall. Jake lead it for us but struggled with the crux at the start so it wasn't looking good for Rebecca and me. She climbed first but couldn't quite get over the crux as she ran out of time. I was next and had to do it quickly as we were leaving soon. I struggled with the crux and it didn't look like I would make it either. However somehow I was able to balance on one foot and stand up to reach the next hold. To say that I was happy would be an understatement. I got up the rest of the climb fine but went a bit slow as I was quite pumped out. It was a good way to end a weeks climbing.
Date: 2/06/12
Trip location: Punakaiki
Group members: Rebecca and Julia
Route name: Weka wall- Unknown
Route grade: 14, 15, 15, 16, 16
Duration of activity: day session
Weather conditions: fine
Incidents/injuries: none
Julia, Rebecca and I started the day early and arrived in Punakaiki ready to climb. We climbed a 14 to warm up then moved onto the rest of the climbs. All of them had difficult starts but once we got past them the rest was easy in comparison. On one of the climbs we couldn't get pass the first bolt but with some sneaky use of equipment, which involved a sling foot hold, we managed to get up. On the last climb of the day a few other climbers showed up while I was on a very long 16. It was going well until I realised I didn't have enough quickdraws so had to down climb twice so I could use two at the chains. Apart from this it was a fun climb even when I had to do the same bit twice. Rebecca climbed up and took a couple of extra draws for the bolts I'd taken them out of. By early afternoon we had done all but two climbs and decided to call it a day and leave the two climbs left for another day.
Date: 11/6/12
Trip location: Golden Bay, Sea cliffs
Group members: Rebecca, Julia and Ru
Route name: Franklins tower
Route grade: 16, 15, 17, 15, 17
Duration of activity: day session
Weather conditions: fine
Incidents/injuries: none
Learning points: Take a head torch everywhere you go especially if there is the possibility that you will be finishing in darkness.
Narrative: We started off with a 16 at the sea cliffs called franklins tower where there was a bell at the top you rang. All of us got to the top easily with Bex and I leading and Julia on top rope. Ru showed up soon after and split off into peers with me and julia doing Unzip a Banana and Ru and Bex starting on an unamed 17. I lead it while Julia top roped and then top roped the 17. It started to get up dark so we tried to speed up the climbs as fast as we could. I climbed another 15 and set a top rope up for Julia but she didn't get to the top so Ru and Bex did that one. It was quite dark below the tree cover but Ru had just set up a top rope on a 17 that I wanted to have a go at. Climbing in darkness is not the easiest thing in the world but luckily I was on top rope otherwise I would have been peaking trying holds I couldn't even see. I got up fine and quickly cleaned it then abseiled down. After scarmbling our gear together in the dark we headed off for a good nights rest.
 |
| Dusk climbing |
Date: 12/6/12
Trip location: Sea Cliffs and Paynes Ford
Group members: Rebecca, Ru and Julia
Route name: Dr Livingstone Wall- Teaching Aliens English. Seagrass- Some Like it Hot, Pussy dancing, Whoosh. Slave Wall- Bondage for Beginners. Little lost wall- Candy Man, The Bell Ringer, Jerry Garcia
Grade: 15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 18, 11, 16
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: Fine
incidents/injuries: None
 |
| Me realising I had missed a quickdraw |
 |
| First lead on a 17 |
Date:13/6/12
Trip Location: Paynes Ford
Group members: Rebecca and I
Route name: Dr Livingstone Wall- unknown. Creese Wall- Blobbet, Calling all Hobbits, unknown
Grade: 14, 17, 14, 16
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: Fine
Incidents/Injuries: None
Narrative: We got up early because we had to leave around lunch today so wanted to get in as much climbing as we could. Our first climb was on Dr Livingstone Wall and was a 14. We then went to Paynes and started off with a 14 then lead a 16 that I had done previously. Our last climb of the day was leading a 17 called Blobbet that had been sandbagged as a 16. Bex and I got up but we were freaking out a bit as the climb was quite smooth and the holds were crimps. It was a good way to finish off the climbing week.
Date: 21/6/12
Trip location: Punakaiki
Group members: Rebecca, Tui and Lenny
Route name: Unknown
Route grade: 16, 15, 15, 15 and 18
Duration of activity: day session
Weather conditions: fine
Incidents/injuries: none
 |
| Bex on the overhang |
We got to Punakaiki around lunch time and got straight into it. Rebecca and I started on the 16 we finished with the last time we were at Punakaiki. This time I made sure to take up the right number of quickdraws. Lenny and Tui had set up a top rope on the 15 beside our climb, to do some speed climbing and Rebecca and I had a go on it. Although I don't think you could really call Rebecca's attempt speed climbing. Lenny and Tui went to set up a top rope on the 18 while me and Rebecca got a couple of climbs in while they both had a go with Lenny leading and Tui on top rope. Rebecca had a go first and was doing well but just couldn't seem to get up over the overhang which had a tricky move. I headed up next with absolutly no hope of getting the overhang with my very limited upper body strength. When I got just below the overhang there was a cool little cave that you could crawl right into and I hung out there a bit to rest my arms and check out the view. Somehow I managed to get over the overhang with a weird move that required a lot of balance. It took a few go's but I was stoked when I got past it as the others could tell by my yelling. From there it was a cruise to the top and I cleaned the climb while the others packed up down below. We moved onto another wall when I came down called the Speights Wall. Lenny was the only one who climbed though because we had to be back by five and were running out of time. While Lenny climbed the sandbagged 17 I was having my own climbing battle. I missioned it up and through some tightly packed together bush to get to the top of the climb and take some photo's of Lenny. It was worth it for the view even with the climb back down where I somehow managed to rip my shorts. After, Tui attempted to climb but ended up prusiking up the rope to clean the climb. Meanwhile Lenny and I were doing some bouldering down the bottom. As soon as Tui was down we raced to the car so we could get back to tech in for the Hangi. Nothing can make a poor student move faster than the offer of free food.
Date:18/8/12
Trip location: Punakaiki
Group members: Tim and Rebecca
Route grade: 16, 15, 16, 18
Duration of activity: 4 hours
Weather conditions: Fine
Incidents/injuries: None
Narrative: Bex, Tim and I headed up to Punakaiki at mid morning. We started with a 16 then a 15 then another 16 before heading over to the overhang 18. Bex tried it first but couldn't get pass the overhang so it was up to me to get our gear down by doing the climb. I was peaking as I was climbing as I did not want to loose my new quickdraws. After some struggling though I made it over the overhang and to the top of the climb which I was very, very happy as was tim who also had some of his quickdraws up the climb. I set up a top rope and Tim climbed next then cleaned it. We called it a day and headed home in my horse eaten car.
 |
| leading the overhang 18 |
Date: 21/09/12Trip location: Charleston
Group members: Ru, Lenny, Alice, Zenzi, Rebecca, Ambrose, Jeremy, Watson, Tim, Conor, Ari, Rob and Jake
Route grade: 15
Duration of activity: Day session
Weather conditions: Fine
Incidents/injuries: Watson forgot his helmet
It was an early start so we could get a full days climbing in. We stopped at a beach along the way to get mussels and found that it was covered in star fish.
We arrived to music pumping out of Jeremy's amp when we got to the crag. I got straight into practicing natural pro placement and setting up anchors and found that I could still do it reasonably well. Alice and Bex set up a climb while Watson and I did a top rope rescue. Hanging from below the bolts brought back bad memories of the last time I was at Charleston and got stuck after I couldn't undo my prusik because of my fractured elbow. Luckily this time I got down fine with my legs only just starting to go numb.
 |
| Setting up some climbs |
 |
| Bex posing for the camera while setting up an anchor |
From there some of the others left so it was just the Jeffries, Bex Rob and Me. Alice, Bex and I did a climb and some top rope rescues while the surf pounded against the rocks not to far from us. Afterwards I set up and anchor but didn't get a chance to climb on it as we were leaving because the weather had changed and it was about to rain. It was quite an awesome day even though we didn't get much climbing in.
 |
| Big waves |
 |
| Sunny day at the crag |
No comments:
Post a Comment